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Notes on Picking Pin Tumbler Locks

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작성자 Jasmin
댓글 0건 조회 5회 작성일 24-07-30 19:22

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By now, you should have a solid understanding of the basics of billiards, cueing techniques, shots, rules, and etiquette. See Figure 2. The plug will be blocked from rotating if any pin stack is lifted either not far enough (with the cut still in the plug below the shear line) or too far (with the cut pushed above the shear line and into the shell); to rotate, all pin stacks must have a cut at the shear line. Each pin stack is cut in one or more places perpendicular to its length. Although somewhat romanticized by popular media and culture, in reality the significance of lock picking is usually dwarfed by other, more practical threats. Here, however, tighter tolerances and, in some cases, high-security secondary mechanisms, are more common. The most common sizes are 7 feet, 8 feet, and 9 feet in length. Each red ball when pocketed remains in the pocket, while the colours when pocketed, as long as any reds remain on the table, are placed on their respective spots. While some of these features can be defeated with conventional picking tools and are covered here, picking high security locks generally requires specialized tools and techniques (often designed for a specific brand or model of lock) and are beyond our scope here.


Picking locks requires skill, practice, and the use of rather unusual (and not widely available) tools. Vertical orientation requires a 90 degree twist in the blade. Most commercial torque tools are designed for horizontal orientation. These are typically pin tumbler locks, but their orientation is "upside down" with respect to the convention for locks installed in the United States. Right: Side view, with part of the shell and plug cut away to expose the six pin stacks. There are locks with two, five, and six pins in each keyway, but the keying codes aren't labeled on them. Left: Cylinder face, the lock's "user interface." Note the keyway, which is cut into the plug, which in turn sits inside the shell. I usually find that the very top of the plug, directly in front of the pins, to be a good place to apply torque, but you have to be careful that the tool doesn't touch the front-most pin. The basic design consists of a rotatable cylinder tube, called the plug, linked to the underlying locking mechanism.


Rotation of the plug within the shell operates the locking mechanism. Some locks will open both clockwise and counterclockwise, but many will only open when turned a particular way, depending on the configuration of the underlying locking mechanism. Picking depends on weaknesses in the implementation of locks -- small manufacturing imperfections -- rather than fundamental, abstract design flaws that would be present no matter how carefully made the locks might be. These imperfections are very small -- as little as .0001 inches in some cases -- but they are what allow us to manipulate ("pick") locks open without using the correct key. The pick must be strong enough to resist bending or breaking while lifting pins, yet the shaft must be small and thin enough to maneuver freely around the keyway without disturbing other pins. The traditional torque tool is made from stiff, flat spring steel, bent at a 90 degree angle to provide a small blade that fits in the keyway and a long handle to which torque is applied.

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The handle of the torque tool serves as a lever to turn the plug. The selection of the torque tool is just as important as that of the pick, but, again, commercial pick kits often fail to include a sufficient range of sizes and designs to allow good control and feel across the range of common locks. Unfortunately, these designs are less than ideal, and many of the "standard" picks are too large to fit and move comfortably in common lock keyways. It's common to encounter challenges while learning billiards. Once you do this, one of the pins will be in the unset/binding state while the other (the one you set) will be in the set/not-binding state . These pins falsely set before they reach the shear line. Left: The correct key lifts the pin stacks to align the cuts at the shear line. Raking, in contrast, is a class of picking techniques in which several pin stack may be set at the shear line simultaneously. It's much easier to learn each skill in isolation, using locks specifically set up for the purpose.



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